A warm welcome home from Mr. Pacific Ocean
Well... the welcome is warm, but the water is not! Brrrr. It's always good to come home to waves when you've been gone, Brown and I got Little Rincon real good the other day, haven't surfed it like that in years. There really is no place like home, you know which spots to check on which swells, how the tide and wind will affect it, which rocks to jump off, where to park, where the trail is etc... it's comfortable, however, with a new spot, being uncomfortable is exactly why it's so exciting to travel around the world to find crazy waves you've never surfed. There's a desire to want to get to know how a new break works, in all conditions, so that you can feel at home.